Pearl Harbor

Oahu – known as the “Gathering Place.”  I have passed through briefly a few times, changing planes from Los Angeles to one of the other islands.   I had never selected Oahu as a destination.  It seemed too touristy, and as someone who lives in a beach side community in touristy Los Angeles, Oahu wasn’t high on my bucket list of travel destinations.  Although I did like the opening credits of both versions of Hawai’i 5-0.

But this year, when my college friends and I decided to spend our annual trip in Hawaii instead of California (check out my earlier post about our “College Friends Forever” adventures), I requested we spend a few days in Oahu so I could finally see Pearl Harbor and the Arizona Memorial.   They were happy to comply. So, we booked a two-night stay in Waikiki before hopping over to Kauai.

It was a great decision.  And emotional.

I realized I was never taught much about the actions that led to the bombing of Pearl Harbor.   We all know about the atrocities in Europe, and I have wandered reverently through many historical sites, such as a concentration camp in Ljubljana, then in the former Yugoslavia, and Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin, but I was never clear on why Japan decided to bomb our Pacific defenses. 

Our tour started with a private van picking us up at our hotel, where we met another couple, also from California.  Five people, an engaging tour guide and a plushy air-conditioned bus.  With cold bottled water.  A good start.

We headed immediately to Pearl Harbor.  After wandering through an outside park area with views of the Memorial and the USS Bowfin, a display of one of the USS Arizona’s anchors, and other tributes to lost servicemen, we attended a short presentation by a park ranger.  His talk left an imprint on my heart.  Here is an abbreviated attempt to share what I learned that day about history, hatred, forgiveness, and redemption.  I hope I got it right – you can Google Pearl Harbor, Richard Fiske and Zenji Abe for the full story.

Private Richard Fiske, a young private and bugler on the USS Arizona, was on the battleship when it was bombed on December 7, 1941.  He saw the face of the Japanese fighter pilot who bombed the ship.  It was seared on his memory forever.  The pilot, Zenji Abe, was acting under instructions of his military commanders.

Abandoning ship, Private Fiske navigated oil-soaked, fiery water amid the cries of his fellow warriors. Think about this – you are trying to survive, you are about to lose 1,100 of your fellow soldiers and you are swimming in a sea that is on fire. All around you is chaos and destruction.

Richard Fiske continued to serve in the military, but for many years there was hate in his heart for the Japanese fighter pilot who caused incredible damage to the USS Arizona.   Meanwhile, Zenji Abe, the Japanese pilot, was horrified to learn that Japan had not officially declared war on the USA. He was filled with remorse that he took orders to kill Americans when Japan wasn’t yet at war with us.

This was such a moving story – and cutting to the chase – at the 50^th anniversary of Pearl Harbor, in 1991, the two men met.  And became friends.  The past was forgiven.  For years after, Abe would send roses and Fiske would lay them at the memorial and play taps on his bugle.   

Whew! It made me think about about forgiveness in my life. And how freeing it is to let go of anger and have the grace to move on. It is truly liberating.

After that story – yes, there is more! – we took the ferry to the Memorial.  It’s a lovely spot with the names of more than 1,100 soldiers who lost their lives. 

You can see the remnants of the USS Memorial below the water.   For years, survivors of the bombing could request to have their ashes inured along with their fellow heroes in this sacred spot – a moving ceremony with divers slowly descending, holding the ashes up high for one final viewing by the guests before laid to rest.   I was told that this spring the last survivor had passed, so that tradition will no longer continue.

The last official part of the journey was a 23-minute documentary of the events of that horrific day.  I learned about Manchuria, Japan’s frustration at the US’s sanctions of oil and energy and its subsequent determination to destroy us as a result, with Pearl Harbor as the outcome.   I also learned that a total of 18 ships were lost that day as well as hundreds more lives besides those on the Arizona. I want to learn more. I didn’t learn that in my school.

There are also two small museums – both worthy of a visit – and of course, a gift shop.

The private tour concluded with a drive around downtown Honolulu and Waikiki and a visit to the Punchbowl Military Cemetery.   Highly recommended! 

I do hope people never forget the heroism of those at Pearl Harbor – as well as those who sacrificed at all the other battles since our inception as the USA – they deserve our respect, honor and gratitude.  They are heroes.  I am grateful.